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Thread: What's cookin' on Spellcaster's stovetop?

  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by French Army Knife View Post
    ........................Yes, add a tone control. Jazz Basses use 250k pots and .047 capacitors, shouldn't it be the same with p-basses? A push-pull tone pot could let you switch between .047 and .022 caps.
    I've been researching this a bit. It seems that a 250K pot is more commonly used on a Precision Bass. The most typical reaction to users is that a 500K pot yields a more raw-sounding tone. I kind of like the way the bass sounds with no controls on it....Just pickup direct to output jack, which is very Rickenbacker-ish sounding.....But in trying to make this more predicably Precision in tone, a 250K pot seems like the best answer. I only have limited choices as far as the tone pot goes - I think it'll probably be a 500K with a 2.2mf, similar to what I used on the Tele. That seemed to give a nice, gradual treble rolloff, which was good.

    Not sure what I'm going to do with the pickguard. When I designed this guard, I was trying to get a Tele Bass feel to it, but there are a couple of contours that seem a bit awkward, so I may end up doing some shaping.
    "I know just enough to be dangerous....."

  2. #152
    Axellent Member French Army Knife's Avatar
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    I've got a butterscotch tele bass that I put together from parts. The smaller the value of the pots the more treble bleeds off to ground. 500K is more than half the way to no bleeding (like no pots at all)

  3. #153
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    I've taken the bass apart and have been working on reshaping the pickguard. I'm close to satisfied now, I think. I've decided to cover the pickguard in some way, but still haven't decided how.



    I'm still mulling over the tone control issue. It occurs to me that I've still got a varitone in the parts-drawer.
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  4. #154
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    I've been looking over this varitone and can't remember how I wired it last time I used it. Does it seem logical that I'd just wire the red wire in parallel with the positive to the output jack and wire the white to ground on the back of a pot?

    [IMG][/IMG]
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  5. #155
    Axellent Member French Army Knife's Avatar
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    I've just googled what the varitone seems to be: an additional rotary switch to shape the mids - very nice to have but it doesn't replace a proper tone control. I've got some spare switches and silver micas and will put one together in the near future.

    I'm not to a 100% sure but yes, that is how I'd wire it.

  6. #156
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    I just had a close look and discovered that the varitone's not a good fit in the cavity. It's too wide, which I could solve by opening up the rout a bit, but depth is also an issue. I don't think there's enough material for me to deepen the rout, so I guess it's back to a standard tone control.
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  7. #157
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    I got the controls mounted today. I ended up using a CTS 250K volume control and a Gibson B500K tone pot with a 2.2m cap. The factory rout was too narrow....actually, the control rout in this Korean Squier body was snug for the original mini-pots, but a Dremel solved it. Pickguard is now drilled, and things are ready for the final cosmetics. I hope to select the covering tomorrow. Still can't figure out what to do about knobs....I was going to use a set of black Gibson speed knobs, but the controls I'm using have different spline arrangements, so standard knobs won't work. I'll be looking through the parts drawer for something with set screws, I think.
    "I know just enough to be dangerous....."

  8. #158
    Axellent Member French Army Knife's Avatar
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    sounds good - more pics! You just followed the "surgeons' second rule": Cut off any useless excess.
    To my mind in most cases it is aesthetically good to not use the Gibson speed knobs. When wrapped around pot shafts small stripes of copper foil in just the right lengh sometimes can produce a tight fit.

  9. #159
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    Knobs has turned out to be an issue. Unfortunately, the tin foil solution only helps if it's because the control shafts are undersized - These are the correct size. but have different numbers of splines.

    I figured I'd look for a set with one or both having set screws....Thought I had it licked when I found two Telecaster knobs - one press-on and the other with a set screw. It wasn't until I put them on the bass that I realized one was a flat-top version, and the other is a dome version, so they don't match. I think, unless something else turns up, this bass is going to get two vintage Twin Reverb knobs (with set screws).

    I'll sure be glad once Canada Post is house-trained again and we're not waiting up to three months for parcel deliveries. Not being able to order parts is turning into a pain in the butt.
    "I know just enough to be dangerous....."

  10. #160
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    I shifted gears and looked at a little issue that's been bugging me.

    On the P90 Tele, which a prospective buyer's going to look at next week, was being built, I had a heck of a time compensating for the deficiencies in that GFS body. In the end, the only thing I was trouble addressing was lining up the string-through holes in the body with the holes in the bridge plate. I got it close, but in the end the spot that the strings would have to slide through was mismatched, ovaled, and a struggle to get the string from the back of the body through the top of the bridge plate.

    I spent hours brainstorming how to deal with this....The last thing I wanted was to have the prospective new owner taking the Tele home, deciding to change strings, and getting frustrated and POed because it wasn't easy. I wanted it right.

    In the end, the solution was easier than expected but a bit time consuming to deal with. I had another one of those Custom Shop Parts bridges in my parts bins, but rather than the humbucker cutout version like the P90 Tele, it was a slightly smaller single coil version. Initiallly, I was going to disregard it and start looking at different bridges, but then I realized that the P90 bridge saddles were full-block saddles, while the bridge from the parts bin had different saddles (more like the Fender Strat saddles that had a different shape on top and an elongated slot in the bottom). I did some measuring and realized that the external dimensions of both types was the same, but the ones with the elongated slot lined up so much better with the holes in the body. It took a while but I unstrung the Tele, exchanged the saddles, and was rewarded by being able to look through the body of the guitar and seeing lots of open space. This photo shows the top four saddles changed and the original A and Low E saddles for comparison....



    Not very often that I can find a simple nuts-and-bolts assembly solution to a long-standing problem, but it makes me feel much better about selling the guitar. My conscience is clear, lol. Tomorrow, I'll redo the setup - string heights and intonation, and it'll be fixed properly. Nice to have a happy ending.
    "I know just enough to be dangerous....."

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